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White-gold, clean and clear. Lofty minerality combined with limes and citrus fruits, stone fruits and somewhere in the background someone is gently holding a fresh lychee. Aromatics only - the only olfactory voice is that of the playful, cheerful fruit. A core of undeniable and underlying fruit richness pins this wine in time and place. Around this comes some textural phenols, some searing acidity and some rainwater minerality. Juxtaposed thereto is the variety's ability to be bold but dry, spare but giving.